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A Surfer’s Trunk

When Alvaro and I finish my Sunday morning surfing lessons, it's 9:30 or 10:00 a.m., depending when we started. At that time, more drivers covet spots in the Taco Hell parking lot than are available. So once I reach my car, there's always someone waiting who was driving behind me as I walked over to it. "Are you leaving?" they always ask. My answer is Read more...

Surfing with Richard

This morning, my friend Richard, a Pacifica resident and longtime surfer, joined us in the water. Well, my instructor, fellow student, and I stayed by the shore and surfed the whitewash while Richard paddled out to catch today’s very big waves. I saw him a couple times out there, but I’ve since lost him to a figurative and literal sea of white surfboards. Today, I Read more...

Other Surfers and Large Waves

This morning, I confronted my two biggest surfing fears: other surfers and large waves. Unfortunately, these two monsters travel in pairs. It's easy to feel calm about surfing when both the ocean and your fellow surfers are even-tempered. When the waves get excited, surfers do, too: They can get greedy about catching the beautiful waves and be hostile with anyone in the lineup encroaching on Read more...

Learning to Surf at 52

"The message I want to share is: Don't delay. Go for it now. Surfing creates community. Surfing brings joy. And it's teaching me to live fearlessly." -Danielle Cass, a Berkeley surfer who learned to surf a year ago at 52 For a happiness boost, take the two minutes to watch Cass's video about how and why she started surfing at 52. https://vimeo.com/694504514 We all need Read more...

Surfing Cayucos Pier

Greetings from Cayucos’s Southside Pier, where I just played in the waves with a surfboard. To say I surfed would be engaging in hyperbole. To say I repeatedly lifted my board over every wave while deciding not to catch it would be more accurate. This morning, I drove the twenty minutes here from my Cambria hotel because I’d read glowing reviews about Good Clean Fun, Read more...

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